Friday 31 October 2014

Oct 31st – Halloween

View from the hotel terrace

I’m writing this from the roof top terrace of Hotel Casa Gangotena, overlooking Plaza de San Francisco. What a fantastic site it is. Right next door is the Church of San Francisco with the Church of La Compania off to the right and the Church of San Domingo just in the distance.  I’m going to take a break as afternoon tea is now being served.

We woke this morning at various times and I, myself, at about 6am, - all of us having gone to bed at 10pm. We all still feeling slightly woolly headed from the jet lag and initially had a slight headache from from the altitude, but other than that, okay. Tamsin and I took advantage of the early start to go onto the roof terrace and take some photos in the clear, but cold, sunlight of El Panecillo, with the winged Madonna (can someone explain that to me?) atop. At about 7:30 activity was just starting to happen in the plaza below - it transpired that it was fiesta time in the plaza below and was a police party?!! We returned to our room to shower and plan for the day.

The winged Madonna
Breakfast in the restaurant was an interesting mix of European Continental breakfast and local cuisine. For example small sausages and fried parsnip mash, or fruit salad comprising “golden berries",  papaya as well as normal fayre.
















At the top - volcanic peaks in the distance
As the day was still clear we decided to start by going up the cable car to the peak overlooking the city at 4100m. The hotel taxi driver took us to the bottom of the lift and we agreed that he would stay and wait for us as we could see no other taxis around. The trip took about 20 minutes each way plus wandering time at the top. As we slowly rose up the city started to spread out below us. Tamsin was clicking away (do digital cameras actually click?) taking photos of the flora as we ascended. I’m sure she will add some comments on that later. At the top we enjoyed spectacular views of not only of the city below, but also the surrounding mountains and (dormant) volcanoes. We took our time walking around as at that altitude you are bit breathless. I looked it up later and found that hypoxia (lack of oxygen in the bloodstream at altitude) can start as low as 8000 ft (about 2500 m) so, being at just under 13,500 ft it was just as well we hadn’t planned to run back down!!


Vulture on church roof
The vibrant coloured historic centre of Quito
We returned to the hotel and decide to enjoy a drink on the roof terrace and plan our next move. Some of our planning has to include the weather because, as the saying goes, if you don’t like the weather round here then wait 10 minutes. As we enjoyed our drinks we watched black clouds roll in, and then out again all while sitting in the warm sun.  We also spotted 2 huge birds on top of the church next to us and photos revealed them to be some sort of vulture.

We headed out with a vague idea of touring the local area and at the same time finding somewhere to eat later.   All the traffic here is very slow moving mainly because there is so much of it but there are also road blocks and works everywhere and lots of traffic police. Each one seems to have a whistle with a different sound. The streets are noisy and bustling with some very sad sights of beggars and the less fortunate. We wound our way back towards the Grande Plaza and found a few potential places for the evening. As we were all tired we headed back and decided to return to our favourite place in the hotel – the roof terrace. Which is where I came in above ;^)

Whilst reading our books, we also enjoyed the light constantly changing on the surrounding brightly coloured buildings which one moment would be in shade and then completely vibrant when the sun came out bringing the colours to life.

Flowers in the covered courtyard
At 4pm, we went down to the enclosed courtyard for afternoon tea which is part of the deal at this hotel.  The flower arrangements, huge vases of the biggest roses I've ever seen and amazing orchids (mainly oncidiums and odontoglossums - guess who's writing this bit?!!) really add to the ambience of the hotel.  The afternoon tea was delicious.  A 2 tiered affair with savoury snacks on the bottom and a delectable selection of cakes and scones on the top layer - we made a valiant effort to clear the plate and left behind just one scone and an apple cake.

We're now in our room relaxing before heading out for a lightish dinner tonight.  We're going to head back to the Grande Plaza as TripAdvisor highly recommends a restaurant serving traditional cuisine.


October 30th : Phew - made it to Quito!

Yesterday at 04:00 the alarm(s) went and over the next 45 minutes three bleary eyed people got themselves showered and changed. The taxi ride to Heathrow was uneventful although approaching T5 in the half light with it all lit up was quite an impressive experience. Apart from Gill have her bag pulled (what, again) by security. Usually it's all her hearing paraphernalia that causes the problem, this time it was a tin of talc that looks like fluid on the scanner.

Flight to Madrid on time and the time passed away quickly and even the in flight omelette was good. Through Madrid airport where poor Gill had further problems with their security. This time they wanted all her bits and pieces out of the bag and no interest in the talc - I wish they could be consistent.

The lounge at Madrid was very pleasant and just as well as there was a delay on the flight. This eventually reduced to 30 minutes. I was impressed by the business section on the Iberian A340-600 and seemed to have more room or maybe I'm starting to shrink! We took off about 40 minutes behind schedule, but were informed that this would translate into about 10 delay on arrival.

In flight the service was good and the food more than acceptable. The selection of wine was all Spanish (no surprise there). We all managed to get some sleep with Tamsin fairing the worst with just over an hour. As expected we arrived into Quito about 10 minutes late. As I was in an inner seat I can't comment in what it was like coming into land, other than you could see peaks through the clouds and it was a bit bumpy.

The airport is new and looked very slick (as best as airports can) and immigration took very little time. We had expected to have to pay $10 for a tourist visa, obviously our info was wrong as there was no comment at any point. Going through customs we had to put the bags through another scanner, fearing the worse we did as requested. I don't think they even looked at the screen as we sailed through. Walking out into meet area we instantly saw our contact. He was very informative and helpful and whisked us off to meet the mini-bus. Along the way he told us about Ecuador, Quito the economy, the weather (there are two seasons here wet and very wet)  and gave us helpful tips. I don't think much sunk in as we were very tired. However, he said that the journey into Quito from the new airport would take about an hour at that time of night. The airport opened in January this year, but the road to Quito will be open about a year later.

Church of San Francisco from the roof terrace
Coming into Quito it is a cross between African city outskirts and American ones. Every so often you come across a KFC or some burger place (no Golden Arches spotted though) with the occasional hispanic looking fast food joint (think burritos, chimichangas). As we turned for the historic centre (the first UNESCO site) things started to turn for the better with impressive buildings, churches etc. We pulled up outside our hotel the Gangotena which is situated on San Francisco plaza, next to the church of San Franciso - an impressive location.

The hotel is a former private house of one of the grand families of Ecuador and the apparent wealth is obvious. Our rooms are wonderful and the beds really beckoned, but Gill had suggested that we have a drink downstairs before retiring. Tamsin suggested a second one (simply because Mum was being so slow at drinking her huge glass of sparkling wine), but the lure of a comfortable bed was too strong and so after almost 24 hours of travel with only some sleep we went to our rooms for a well earned sleep.

An important church as yet unidentified!
When we were being shown around the hotel, the very helpful receptionist mentioned a roof terrace with stunning views, so after settling into our rooms, and before our night cap, we went up there to explore.

Wednesday 15 October 2014

This blog is for our delayed South America trip. We have our house sitters lined up, Dave and Leslie Fowler. They arrive Friday 24th. we leave Tues 28th for the UK. Below is the high level itinerary and some notes. Just reading it I'm starting to get excited as this crosses off two major items from my wish list (aka bucket list) - Easter Island and the Galapagos!

The best bit of news. The reason for the delay was so that Gill (Tamsins Mum) has had a cochlear implant fitted and is now working well. Yes, you've worked it out, she's coming with us and Easter Island is on her wish list too!

Time difference London -> Ecuador = - 6 hours
Time difference  Ecuador -> Galapagos = - 1 hr
Time difference Ecuador -> Chile = + 1 hr
Time difference Santiago and Easter Island = - 2 hrs
Time difference Santiago and London = + 5 hrs
Date Activity Staying where? Country
29-Oct Reading Mums UK
30-Oct Fly to Madrid and then Quito (07.25 - 18.05) 2 hr xfr to hotel Casa Gangotena, Quito Ecuador
31-Oct Half day private excursion in the morning Casa Gangotena, Quito Ecuador
01-Nov Fly to Coca (45 mins); motorised canoe (2hrs), dugout canoe (2rs) Napo Wildlife centre Ecuador
02-Nov   Napo Wildlife centre Ecuador
03-Nov   Napo Wildlife centre Ecuador
04-Nov   Napo Wildlife centre Ecuador
05-Nov Fly to Coca (45 mins); motorised canoe (2hrs), dugout canoe (2rs) Casa Gangotena, Quito Ecuador
06-Nov   Casa Gangotena, Quito Ecuador
07-Nov Fly to Galapagos via Guayaquil La Pinta, Galapagos Ecuador
08-Nov   La Pinta, Galapagos Ecuador
09-Nov   La Pinta, Galapagos Ecuador
10-Nov   La Pinta, Galapagos Ecuador
11-Nov   La Pinta, Galapagos Ecuador
12-Nov   La Pinta, Galapagos Ecuador
13-Nov   La Pinta, Galapagos Ecuador
14-Nov Fly to Guayaquil Hilton Colon Hotel, Guayaquil Ecuador
15-Nov Fly Guayaquil to Santiago (economy) 09.20-16.15; transfer to Valparaiso (2hrs) Casa Higueras, Valparaiso Chile
16-Nov Half day private excursion Casa Higueras, Valparaiso Chile
17-Nov Winery La Casona at Matetic Chile
18-Nov   La Casona at Matetic Chile
19-Nov Transfer to Santiago (1.5hrs) Santiago to Easter Island 08.10 - 11.50 Rapa Nui, Easter Island Chile
20-Nov 2 hr time zone difference between Easter Island and Santiago Rapa Nui, Easter Island Chile
21-Nov   Rapa Nui, Easter Island Chile
22-Nov   Rapa Nui, Easter Island Chile
23-Nov Easter Island to Santiago 13.05 - 19.55 Holiday Inn airport, Santiago Chile
24-Nov Fly Santiago to Calama 07.25 - 09.35; 1.5hr road transfer to hotel Atacama desert Chile
25-Nov   Atacama desert Chile
26-Nov   Atacama desert Chile
27-Nov 1.5 road transfer to Calama and then fly to Santiago 18.00 - 20.00 Le RĂªve Boutique, Santiago Chile
28-Nov Fly Santiago to Madrid 13.25 Plane Int'l
29-Nov Arrive in Madrid 06.30.  Fly to London 09.10 - 10.40 Home!! UK










UK